Arctic Trekking with Scott Hed
Part One:
Backpacking Along Thousand-Year-Old Caribou Trails
Let Me Introduce Myself
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Here I am with my backpack
deep in the Brooks Range
Credit Scott Hed
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My name is Scott Hed and I live
in Sioux Falls, SD. I had an incredible experience in the land of the Porcupine
caribou that I wanted to share with students of Journey North.
I have visited Alaska many times starting in 1998, but the most amazing
trip I’ve taken in Alaska was spent in the Arctic National Wildlife
Refuge in the summer of 2001. I figured this would be my chance to
see the Refuge for myself decide whether it should remain protected
or whether
it should be opened to the oil industry for development. The trip led
me to a new career and a new way of working toward a goal I am passionate
about.
The Trip Begins On Foot
My trip started in Fairbanks, AK, in June, 2001. I met my companions the night
before we were to leave. There were six of us that planned to backpack for
40 miles in 8 days across the crest of the Brooks Range. The Brooks Range
is the northernmost extension of the Rocky Mountains and it divides the coastal
plain in the north from the boreal forest in the southern part of the Arctic
Refuge. At the end of the backpack trip, I would join a group of eleven other
people and raft on the Kongakut River from the foothills of the Brooks Range
to the Arctic Ocean. The Kongakut is located in the Eastern part of the Refuge
and flows into a wide delta as it empties into the Arctic Ocean.
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Moon rise over Arctic
Village
Credit Last Great Wilderness Project
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Early in the morning, we boarded a 12-seat plane that
left Fairbanks and flew north over some very remote country. If you
look at a map of
Alaska, there are not many roads. Most places are accessible only by
small plane or boat. After 45 minutes we landed at Fort Yukon, a small
Gwich’in Athabaskan native village on the banks of the mighty Yukon
River. A few of us got out in Fort Yukon, while the others continued
to Arctic Village, another Gwich’in village that lies right on
the southern border of the Arctic Refuge. From Fort Yukon, we boarded
a smaller plane.
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Me with part of our
group at the landing
Credit Scott Hed
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We crossed river valleys too numerous to count and flew into the heart
of the Brooks Range. The lush forests and river valleys gave way to rock,
snow and ice as we flew higher. We flew into a remote valley and saw
a few scattered bands of caribou grazing on the tundra grasses and bushes.
When our pilot found a piece of flat ground to put the plane down, we
landed and unloaded our gear. The pilot then returned for the others
in our party who were waiting in Arctic Village.
Once the plane left us, we were the only people for many miles. There
are no interpretive centers, bathroom facilities or trails in the Arctic
Refuge; it is a true wilderness. You are on your own, and there is no
one to come pick you up if you get hurt or just want to go home. We knew
the plane would pick us up on schedule. Other than that, we had no other
contact with the outside world.
On the backpack trip we needed to carry all of our gear – tents,
sleeping bags, clothing, cooking gear, food, etc. It is impossible to
predict what the weather will be like. It can snow in any month of the
year in the Arctic, so we were prepared with lots of warm weather clothing.
But for most of the time I was there, we had beautiful weather….with
almost no mosquitos- which was a real bonus! The temperatures at night
dipped to a little below freezing but in the daytime it warmed into the
high 50s and low 60s.
Caribou Every Day
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An everyday
sight in ANWR
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Summer in the Arctic means daylight 24-hours-a-day; the
sun never goes down. , It is dark only when you close your eyes. This takes
some getting
used to, but it’s nice to not be regulated by a clock, and it’s
not difficult to fall asleep especially after carrying a 70-pound pack
for miles across a trailless landscape. I should correct that statement,
and say that there are no “man-made” trails in the Arctic Refuge.
We did have the benefit of following trails that had been worn even into
sheer rock over thousands of years of migrations by the Porcupine caribou
herd. We were fortunate to see caribou every day of our trip. They were
making their way from their wintering grounds further to the south in Alaska
and to the east in Canada to the coastal plain of the Arctic Refuge, where
they traditionally spend the summer months giving birth to and raising
their calves.
Refuge is Safe Home To Many Special
Animals
In addition to the Porcupine caribou herd (the herd that is tracked on this
site), there are many other types of animals, fish, and birds that call the
Arctic Refuge home for all or part of their year. There are 35 other land mammals
including polar, black, and grizzly bears, wolves, foxes, musk oxen, moose,
Dall sheep, ground squirrels, and many more. There are 12 types of marine mammals
including bowhead whales and several kinds of seals. 180 species of birds have
been observed in the Arctic Refuge, including 130 species that specifically
use the coastal plain (the area at risk to oil development) of the refuge.
These birds travel from every state in the United States and every continent
on the planet. The long distance champion is the arctic tern, which travels
to and from the Arctic Refuge from Antarctica every year! To learn about birds
that use the Arctic Refuge from your state, visit Defenders
of Wildlife.
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Red-throated Loon
Credit US Fish and Wildlife Service
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Snowy Owl
Credit US Fish and Wildlife Service
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Long Tail Ducks
Credit Earle Layser
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Grizzly Bear
Credit US Fish and Wildlife Service
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Meeting the Kongakut River
On the evening of June 21, the
longest day of the year in locations where the sun actually does go down,
we backpacked across the Kongakut River at midnight. The current was
fairly strong and the six of us linked arms as we crossed the river that
was waist-deep. And cold. It was the last night of our backpack trip
and the plane was coming in the morning to pick some people up and drop
off the rafting party. Setting up the tents that foggy night a wolf howled
and I thought it didn’t really matter if the plane came in the
morning. I wasn’t leaving anyway, and I was as happy as I’ve
ever been just to have the chance to spend time in such an incredible
place. When I woke in the morning, the fog had cleared and it was a blue-sky
day. The planes came in and some people left and some others arrived
for the rafting portion of our journey.
Stay tuned
for Part 2! >>
Journaling Questions
- In his journal, Scott Hed writes, "On the backpack trip we needed
to carry all of our gear – tents, sleeping bags, clothing, cooking
gear, food, etc." Scott leaves out a lot of detail in his description
of the things he has packed. If you were planning a trip to the Arctic
in June what are some of the things you would want to include in your
backpack (remember- you have to carry everything!)?
- Out of the 180 species of birds who migrate to the Refuge, which
ones also spend time in your state? Visit the Website of Defenders
of the Wilderness and click on your state to find a list of these
birds. Get to know 3 birds you don't know much about.
- Using a good map of Alaska, locate the outline of the Arctic National
Wildlife Refuge. Find Fairbanks, Fort Yukon, Arctic Village and the
Kongakut River. Outline the course of the Kongakut northward to the
Arctic Ocean.
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